Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 30, Number 1, 1 January 2013 — 'Slow food' FOR THE SOUL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

'Slow food' FOR THE SOUL

By Kekoa Enomoīo Two Maunawili farmers took a message to Europe that lo'i kalo nourish the spirit as well as the body. Dean and Miehele Wilhelm represented Slow Food O'ahu recently in Turin, Italy, at the hiannual Slow Food summit. They were among an estimated 250,000 attendees at Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre, the largest of all international Slow Food events. The worldwide Slow Food movement encompasses devotees in more than 800 ehap-

ters in 150 countries. The 26-year-old initiative promotes sustainable food and small loeal businesses versus the globalization of agricultural products. The eouple eame away from Italy encouraged and inspired to keep on their path. "It was incredible to see people so committed to maintaining their food traditions," Dean Wilhelm said. "It's as if we were all speaking the same language; that we will eonhnue to maintain what has been passed on to us because it's so important and good, and is the right thing to do."

ihe Wiiheims, both 44, are continuing to open up lo'i kalo on their 7.5 acres of land in Windward O 'ahu . They have 10 lo'i and plan to double that in a few years. They began five years ago with the help of family, volunteers and youths. Many of these youths are at-risk and have participated in the Wilhelms' nonprofit Ho'okua'āina mentoring program. An OHA grant enables the youths to be paid for their work and gain hnaneial literacy skills, all while learning the value of mālama 'āina (caring for the land). At the Slow Food event, "Stories so simi-

lar to Hawai'i were shared," Miehele Wilhelm said, recalling a woman froma Siberian ethnic group of 13,000. She quoted the woman: "We have lost the ability to grow foods because of lost lands. We are eating canned and processed foods that have been introduced. Our people didn't even know what cancer and diabetes were 20 years ago. Now we are trying to encourage our young people to turn back to the traditional ways, but it's a struggle." Miehele Wilhelm said: "Our hearts just went out to thembecause we couldrelate so well. It's

the same old story happening around the world." Dean Wilhelm reflected, "There were times early on when I was down in the lo'i by myself clearing hau bush, shoveling mud, weeding, (but) many others here in Hawai'i are like me. And the number of them seems to be increasing. We understand the value and importance of growing kalo, and love spending

time doing so. "It doesn't mean we're stuck in the past," he said. "Rather, as we look and move forward, we bring along some of the old wisdom and lifestyle, and in some small way do our part to ensure the uniqueness and longevity of the Hawaiian culture." For more on the Wilhelms, visit kapalaifarms.com or Kapalai Farms on Facebook. ■ Kekoa Enomoto is a retired copy editor and staffwriter with The Maui News andformer Honolulu Star-Bulletin.

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Miehele and Dean Wilhelm at their 7.5-acre Kapalai Farms while youths, including their four children, work lo'i in the lee of 1 ,643-foot Olomana peak. - Courtesy: Kapalai Farms